Some recent Dragonflies

[Uncle Kevriano]

In among the Butterfly photography there is always room form the magnificent Dragonflies.

Four-Spotted Chaser

• ILCE-7RM4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/13
• 1/1000 sec
• ISO 2000

Hairy Dragonfly

• ILCE-7RM4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/9
• 1/500 sec
• ISO 1000

Scarce Chaser

• ILCE-7RM4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/8
• 1/1000 sec
• ISO 400

Norfolk Hawker

• ILCE-7RM4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/8
• 1/1000 sec
• ISO 640

Scarce Chaser

• ILCE-7RM4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/8
• 1/1250 sec
• ISO 1000

Scarce Chaser being beautifully backlit.

• ILCE-7RM4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/10
• 1/1000 sec
• ISO 3200

Scarce Chaser with the river as a backdrop

• ILCE-7RM4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/8
• 1/1000 sec
• ISO 500

Four-Spotted Chaser

• ILCE-7RM4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/10
• 1/1000 sec
• ISO 1250

Black Tailed Skimmer

• ILCE-7RM4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/8
• 1/640 sec
• ISO 400

Four-Spotted Chaser - slightly aged, maybe a week or so old.

• ILCE-7RM4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/13
• 1/1000 sec
• ISO 1000

Four-Spotted Chaser - very freshly emerged, hence the appearance of being made from gold.

• ILCE-7RM4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/11
• 1/1000 sec
• ISO 1600

 

[FowlersFreeTime]

Really nice shots as usual Kev!
BTW, how far away from these dragonflies were you? I see you're at full 600mm, but since I've never used such a long lens I was curious.

 

[WeeMalky]

A cracking set Kev. Still to see any up here hopefully soon

 

[MrFotoFool]

Those are very nice. Dragonflies are difficult to photograph (for me at least) - very small and don't stay still for long. Plus the shallow depth of field at close range means I get most of the body out of focus. I notice you are shooting them more parallel to the body instead of head on (as I have tried), which I suppose is a good way to keep more of the body in the plane of focus.

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

Cheers guys.

@Tim. Just years of experience with them. They've always been a favourite subject.

@ Chris. 8- 10ft or so. If I can get away with minimum focus distance (7.8ft on the 200 600) I will do. These are also shot in crop mode and are cropped in in post, as these creatures are barely 3 inches long at most.

@ Malky. It's amazing how much difference a few degrees of temperature makes.

@ Fred. Yes, exactly, and it's also about where you aim your centre focus point in relation to your DOF.

 

[Deleted Member 5003]

IT is also a question of using a macro lens or not........in using a standard lens with a reasonable depth of field and longer
close focussing distance, you should be able to get fully focussed images with a degree of flexability in getting the whole
body/object in focus.

In using a macro lens however with higher magnifications and very low depth of field you have to either accept that you
will not get the whole image in focus(except in those cases where you align you cameras focal plane with the corresponding
image of the subject), otherwise you need to decide on the critical parts of the bug, insect, butterfly or insect say that you
want to keep in focus.

The only other way in using a macro lens to achieve overall focus is to "focus stack" images which is a whole new ball
game requiring more specialised camera/lens movement control as well as more complex post processing.

Focus stacking with a high FPS camera and closely controlled incremental movement of your focal point is possible but
with very limited success......

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

IT is also a question of using a macro lens or not........in using a standard lens with a reasonable depth of field and longer
close focussing distance, you should be able to get fully focussed images with a degree of flexability in getting the whole
body/object in focus.

In using a macro lens however with higher magnifications and very low depth of field you have to either accept that you
will not get the whole image in focus(except in those cases where you align you cameras focal plane with the corresponding
image of the subject), otherwise you need to decide on the critical parts of the bug, insect, butterfly or insect say that you
want to keep in focus.

The only other way in using a macro lens to achieve overall focus is to "focus stack" images which is a whole new ball
game requiring more specialised camera/lens movement control as well as more complex post processing.

Focus stacking with a high FPS camera and closely controlled incremental movement of your focal point is possible but
with very limited success......

Macro is pretty much impossible with Dragonflies like these, unless you can get close as they wake early and are not yet flying. I've always used a long zoom, because, as you say, you have much better control over DOF and the focus plane.

 

[Deleted Member 5003]

Yes you are correct it is difficult with macro lenses. I do all my macro with a 200mm F4 MF Nikon lens which allows me good separation from the subject without having to get very close and helps to avoid spooking my subjects.

From my experience with dragon flies I find if you can lock onto a dragonfly at rest during their daily activity they will usually frequently leave and return to the same location and you need to be ready when they do to take your shots......

 

[MrFotoFool]

I don't normally photograph dragonflies (or any other insects or arthropods), but last night I tried my luck with this blue dasher at a small, local preserve. It's nowhere near as good as the set posted above, but it's all I've got. A74 (with battery grip) and FE 200-600.

• ILCE-7M4
• FE 200-600mm F5.6-6.3 G OSS
• 600.0 mm
• ƒ/13
• 1/250 sec
• ISO 3200

 

[Deleted Member 5003]

Its a good start at least you were able to achieve some level of clarity on the eyes wit good wing positioning.........

 

[iain clyne]

I'll throw one in, a Banded Damoiselle.

A6400119 by Iain Clyne, on Flickr