A dark past.

[evacguy]

Stolen Legacy - slavery exhibition Greenwich Maritime Museum.

• ILCE-7M4
• FE 70-200mm F2.8 GM OSS II
• 70.0 mm
• ƒ/11
• 1/8000 sec
• ISO 3200

 

[Deleted Member 5045]

What's the go with the shutter speed there mate?

 

[evacguy]

What's the go with the shutter speed there mate?

It was quite bright on parts of the building in the backgrond and on the globe. My zebra's were going wild!

 

[evacguy]

But you were at ISO 3200! Same exposure @ ISO 100 would've been 1/250.

Yes, I couldn’t understand why the iso was so high. I have ISO on auto, so surprised ISO was so high.

 

[evacguy]

For this kind of shooting where you have time to think, compose, etc., I HIGHLY recommend you abandon Auto ISO and start working within your base of 100. The MIV also has a dual range sensor with a second base ISO at 400 that is very handy. You are going to learn so much more by doing it yourself. I only use Auto ISO when things are happening fast, like birds, or the drag strip, or an air show, etc. and you don't have time to make a lot of changes. Even a that I only switch to it when the light gets low enough to be an issue. My cameras are in M 99% of the time.

You will hear all kinds of things about this and get many different opinions, but there is no better way to become proficient than by staying in M and doing everything yourself when you can. Setting changes will soon come through muscle memory.

Here's the Read-Noise chart for the MIV. You can see that noise at 400 is about the same as 125, which is very low. Remember 100 and 400, you'll find these settings will cover 90% of your normal shooting.


View attachment 35873

Yes indeed. I shot full manual for Astro and set the ISO to 400. For everything else I have been relying on auto ISO, with a manually inserted upper cap on the ISO. Still not sure why the camera selected ISO3200? I guess it was a little cloudy and so dull in parts. But when the sun peaked through there were highlights in the sky, on parts of the white stone buildings in the background and also parts of the globe. But yes, for stationary objects like this fully manual is best.

 

[evacguy]

Yes indeed. I shot full manual for Astro and set the ISO to 400. For everything else I have been relying on auto ISO, with a manually inserted upper cap on the ISO. Still not sure why the camera selected ISO3200? I guess it was a little cloudy and so dull in parts. But when the sun peaked through there were highlights in the sky, on parts of the white stone buildings in the background and also parts of the globe. But yes, for stationary objects like this fully manual is best.

My bad. I just checked my camera settings and discovered the ISO was set to 3200 and not auto!!! I couldn’t understand why all those shots were coming out at 3200! Lesson learnt, check settings each time you start a new shoot.

 

[Gaz]

I use the PAL workflow. Landscape is set to auto ISO but I often flick it to ISO 400 - I’ve set the rear wheel for spinning ISO.

Funny, I never see ISO 100 - auto ISO likes 125. Maybe I’ve set something stupid.

 

[Deleted Member 5045]

I’ve set the rear wheel for spinning ISO.

So do I, it must be a Sydney thing...

 

[Deleted Member 5045]

Oh well, at least I know what zebra is now. I first thought your pet zebra mustn't like bright lights...

 

[Clide]

For this kind of shooting where you have time to think, compose, etc., I HIGHLY recommend you abandon Auto ISO and start working within your base of 100. The MIV also has a dual range sensor with a second base ISO at 400 that is very handy. You are going to learn so much more by doing it yourself. I only use Auto ISO when things are happening fast, like birds, or the drag strip, or an air show, etc. and you don't have time to make a lot of changes. Even a that I only switch to it when the light gets low enough to be an issue. My cameras are in M 99% of the time.

You will hear all kinds of things about this and get many different opinions, but there is no better way to become proficient than by staying in M and doing everything yourself when you can. Setting changes will soon come through muscle memory.

Here's the Read-Noise chart for the MIV. You can see that noise at 400 is about the same as 125, which is very low. Remember 100 and 400, you'll find these settings will cover 90% of your normal shooting.


View attachment 35873

Tim, thanks for this info!

 

[Roland]

I know, I should us everything manual including ISO. But I have to worry about so many things, when I take a picture and auto ISO helps.
If I take tricky pictures, I check my auto ISO by holding down the shutter halfway, which displays the ISO value. For me, it works faster than calculating everything by hand.

 

[iamdlewis]

You don't have to calculate anything. Use the meter/zebras/histogram to make your settings. The only reason anyone finds it a problem is because they haven't done it enough. It really does become automatic after a while. For those who used to shoot film, we were stuck with what we had (pushing or pulling ASA aside). Changing ISO wasn't even possible, so we learned how to do it with aperture, shutter, and available light.

The good old days were not so good.

For added joy just go ahead and add in that you can't start processing photos until you fill the card.

We'll skip the rewinding the film, using a dark room or bag and then the chemical mix of developing the film.

 

[evacguy]

You don't have to calculate anything. Use the meter/zebras/histogram to make your settings. The only reason anyone finds it a problem is because they haven't done it enough. It really does become automatic after a while. For those who used to shoot film, we were stuck with what we had (pushing or pulling ASA aside). Changing ISO wasn't even possible, so we learned how to do it with aperture, shutter, and available light.

Here's a challenge for anyone who wants to give it a try: Set your ISO and go make photos for a week without changing it. Pretend you can't. See how you fare.

Tim that's what I was doing when I accidently set my ISO to 3200 for 3 days! I remember the days of using Kodak 400 ASA TRI-X black and white film and push processing it to get it even faster!

 

[Gaz]

Just two ISO choices for film, being 100 or 400. Forget 800 (grain) or 64 (movement).

I have three choices now on the A7iv - 100, 400 or auto.

 

[evacguy]

Just two ISO choices for film, being 100 or 400. Forget 800 (grain) or 64 (movement).

I have three choices now on the A7iv - 100, 400 or auto.

Yes, for dark sky, when I get a chance, its 400.

 

[BryLogan]

Just two ISO choices for film, being 100 or 400. Forget 800 (grain) or 64 (movement).

I have three choices now on the A7iv - 100, 400 or auto.

Ha, not true! Except for my time working as a PJ, my “standards” were Panatomic-X (ASA 32) and Plus-X (ASA125). I loved those emulsions.

 

[BryLogan]

WRT to OP employing ISO 3200 in the above photo: In my use of DSLRs by Minolta and then Sony, I had developed the practice of never dialing up an ISO above 400. Upon returning to photography following an 3-year involuntary layoff, I was absolutely flabbergasted with the state of virtually noiseless high ISO shooting.