Electric Guitars

[-ST-]

Do you have suggestions on how to get some good photos of electric guitars? The bodies of these guitars are sculpted—that is, they are not flat and have what's called a violin carve. I have trouble showing that without hotspots and washed-out areas. And there are lots of shiny metal bits to cause flairs.

Here are a few attempts. I'm using ambient light from skylights above that are about two meters away (sideways) to avoid seeing the outline of the skylights reflected in the guitars.

I'm trying to get the natural colours (hence the skylights).

I don't have studio lights and would prefer not to incur the expense because almost everything else I shoot is wildlife, landscapes, and musicians performing.

Do you have any suggestions?

There's a light spot on the body near the centre of the photo. This was bigger and brighter, and I did a little work with a style brush in Capture One to tone it down. I couldn't eliminate it completely, though, so it looks slightly fogged out. I had the same problem on the neck.

I'm not overly concerned about the headstocks being out of focus due to the shallow depth of field. I take separate shots of the headstocks anyway.

For the most part, I'm shooting at f/1.2 because the skylights aren't very bright (it's been overcast for days).

• ILCE-1
• Sony FE 50mm F1.2 GM (SEL50F12GM)
• 50.0 mm
• ƒ/1.2
• 1/60 sec
• ISO 3200

You can see the sculpted shape of the violin carve in the shot below.

• ILCE-1
• Sony FE 50mm F1.2 GM (SEL50F12GM)
• 50.0 mm
• ƒ/3.2
• 1/15 sec
• ISO 800

And I like this angle because it's similar to what you'd see when someone is playing it. (I posted this photo a few days ago in a different thread). I'm torn about this one because the glare on the lower part highlights the shape, but at the same time, it feels like the photographer didn't have the talent to avoid the washed-out colour.

• ILCE-1
• Sony FE 50mm F1.2 GM (SEL50F12GM)
• 50.0 mm
• ƒ/1.8
• 1/500 sec
• ISO 12800

What do you think?


Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks

 

[-ST-]

Here are some examples of the headstocks. This is from the first guitar in the post above.

• ILCE-1
• Sony FE 50mm F1.2 GM (SEL50F12GM)
• 50.0 mm
• ƒ/1.2
• 1/50 sec
• ISO 3200

From the third guitar in the post above.

• ILCE-1
• Sony FE 50mm F1.2 GM (SEL50F12GM)
• 50.0 mm
• ƒ/4.5
• 1/200 sec
• ISO 4000

I never think of it until later; Maybe I should turn the tuning pegs so they are all at the same angle. What do you think?

 

[FowlersFreeTime]

Would a CPL help to cut down on the glare?

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

I think you need a far greater depth of field, so that you can get everything in focus, 3.2 is nothing, as you can see. I think the lighting is good, and natural. Glare would be helped by a polarizer for sure, but you'd need to be careful with exposure.

 

[Angus Cameron]

You might try a longer lens, increase the distance to subject, increase the f stop to f8 or 11, polariser, low iso, tripod, timer on shutter release or remote release and longer exposure.

If you still have hotspots, you could use some black matt card to flag the light falling on the problem area.

 

[DaveC Oz]

Here are some examples of the headstocks. This is from the first guitar in the post above.
View attachment 67152
From the third guitar in the post above.
View attachment 67153

I never think of it until later; Maybe I should turn the tuning pegs so they are all at the same angle. What do you think?

Just my opinion, but I think that while in some ways aligning the pegs would be visually neater, but it would also look artificial. As for photographic techniques, or methods I don't have any helpful ideas, but I look forward to seeing what you come up with. My only suggestion is to keep playing around with varied lighting, angles, exposures, etc. to get the results you are looking for. I look forward to seeing the results.

 

[FowlersFreeTime]

I'm finally looking at the photos on my larger screen: beautiful guitars, especially the first one
I notice your shutter speed and ISO, are you handheld for all photos? Because if so, I would use a tripod, lower ISO, narrower aperture, and longer exposure; its not like your subject is going to move at all. This would also free up your hands if you wanted to try and shape the light with a modifier (reflector/bounce-card or even a thin white bedsheet to act as a diffuser) or to tweak the angle of the guitar slightly to be intentional with where the highlights fall on the guitar to emphasize angles.

 

[Landshark99]

Are those your PRS guitars, beautiful instruments. Anyway, Is the skylight clear or frosted? If clear I would get some type of diffusion material. I would suggest using a tripod drop your shutter way down and not shooting wide open. If you do not have a remote release use the self timer to control vibration.
You can add depth and control of shadows and highlight with just some white and black boards to fill in light and subtract it.

 

[Thad E Ginathom]

I would add my voice to...

More depth of field (smaller aperture etc) in the full length pics. I don't know if all sharp should be the aim, but part blurry seems a bit odd for what is a kind of portrait. Unless you were aiming for sharp focus for a very limited area.

Don't align the pegs. They look natural and give a kind of movement to the picture. Would art people call it tension? I think it's what I mean but I don't have that education.

Beautiful instruments, lovely pics.