Sony FE 200-600. Handheld, Monopod or Tripod When Taking Bird Pictures

[VeryFatbloke]

Hi all

I'm struggling somewhat to get the quality of photo that I want when I'm using the above lens handheld. I find that my focus seems to be off and I suspect that it's because I'm struggling to keep the lens still while shooting. I do have the subject in the picture but focus seems to be slightly above, below or either side of the subject. The lens itself is quite heavy so I was wondering whether people are using a tripod or monopod when shooting birds on the ground. If you do how do you use it if you are in a hide?

Another question, what is the best focus mode to use for birds on the ground? I've used wide and also centre fix, again with varying results.

Thanks

 

[iamdlewis]

Change your "Priority Set In AF-C" (found in the AF menu section) setting to Focus and not be Balanced or Release. Doing this will drop your frame rate slightly as the camera will only release the shutter once the AF and Tracking agree they are both on the subject. What is happening for you is that your AF hasn't quite caught up to the subject when the camera says it is time to take another image.

I go handheld as I feel too restricted when the camera is mounted. I may use a tripod if in a hide and it is on the darker side but this is extremely rare.

BiF I use Area Wide +Tracking and on ground/in tree I use small spot. At least with the A1 and A7Riv the subject detection isn't good enough to use a wide setting for a bird in a bush so that is a no go and center fix is too limiting but also too large of a focus box.

 

[Uncle Kevriano]

My personal settings, and I always shoot handheld by the way.

For birds in flight: AF-C always, for everything, OSS off, expanded flexible spot with tracking or wide, depending on the subject size, big birds are easier on expanded spot, but I will quite often use single centre and manually track bigger subjects, especially in good light.

Ground birds, always single centre point focus, never anything else ever, it's easily the most accurate, as it should be. No tracking either. In hides I rest the lens on my hand, elbow on the frame/table, or will rest the lens on the window edges. OSS is always on in this situation as I generally shoot 1/1000th as a shutter speed, unless they are moving a lot, then 1/2500+ and OSS off.
By the way, I always have mode on mode 1.

 

[Paul stuart]

hard one guess the weight is some issue although latest firmware on my A1 has improved the stabilization with the 200-600mm ,some times less sharp issues are caused by other things poor light atmospherics etc,the 200-600mm fairs not as well in backlighting as the primes or gm lenses ,but sharp results can be achieved and indistguishable from all but the best gm lenses ,i found the wimberly monopodgimbal a great assett for the lower shutter speeds really everyone should own one with big lenses remember the 200-600mm is 2.3 kg with hood attatched , if in a hide you can use anything you like free shooting is best handheld with elbow tucked in or resting on hide shelf ,although i have just seen a video about a speed ball head that would give options of everything and very quick to use https://colinbrister.co.uk/product/speedigimbal/#:~:text=The SpeediGimbal is a new monopod/tripod head where
seriously quite unique and not tied in to anyone system ,if your subject is fairly still just use single spot focus set it up to a assigned button ,use a bigger array of focus points for anything sky with subject flighty .also try to use the centre portion of the frame as much as you can the 200-600mm is sharpest in centre anythingthe edges of frame to mid are not as good,i like using my 200-600mm with my a7r5 most as the ibis and ois is best in class for sony.i use all the modes of ois on the 200-600mm especially if doing slow pans ,but every one has different way views we are not all the same and we shoot different subjects,genres and styles,

 

[AlphaWorld]

I have trouble with the 200-600 due to its weight, but I think the question is whether you are shooting with the camera at the same height all the time. If you are shooting at a distance and not lifting the lens, then a tripod or monopod will help. I have been trying to photograph closer birds, and I gave to keep lifting the lens to keep them in frame ( even worse when they fly over me!). For that, a tripod or monopod just can’t help. My answer is the 300 GM + 2x - gives me my lightest path to 600mm. Even then, tracking broadwing raptors orbiting overhead gets tiring!

The suggestion of switching AF priority to Focus should help - I may do that, too.

 

[Unframed Dave]

Always handheld when standing. Gets a bit wearing towards the end of the day.

Stationary or slow moving birds, centre spot small.

Flying, expanding spot.

For me.

At the end of the day though, with wildlife, there are certain unarguable facts.

Practice, Practice and more practice. While everyone else is ignoring the Robins, sparrows and gulls, shoot away. It pays off in the end, developing hand, eye coordination and muscle memory. I target shoot regularly and anyone of us at the club who takes even a week off will notice a deterioration in group size when they return. You cannot beat practice and the more time you spend in the field, the more you see and the more you learn about your subject.

Distance, nothing in the world will overcome too much of it in terms of wildlife photography. Accept this and you are on the path to enlightenment. When the bird is too far away, enjoy watching it. Relax in the knowledge that you are not going to have to delete hundreds if not thousands of disappointing shots when you get home.

light, not just the amount, although poor light will undoubtedly lead to a disappointing shot, but the quality. Sad to say, every shot of a barn owl has now been taken, beautiful shots are still quite rare. Beautiful, interesting shots will alwaya get a wow.

Great wildlife photography, which inspired most of us, did not start with technology.

 

[VeryFatbloke]

Thank you @iamdlewis @Uncle Kevriano @Paul stuart @AlphaWorld and @Unframed Dave
Some really good advice which I intend to take on board.
I'll let you know how I get on, going forwards.

 

[Slug]

Always hand held.

 

[Soundmike]

Must admit I've two tripods and have never used them for bird photography prefer hand held but lugging the 200 600 around is getting harder every time. I've experimented with most settings and for me BIF I use zone sometimes with tracking wide, still birds medium or small spot. But like others have said practice and practice.

 

[OscarPhilips]

I love the FE 200-600 G, but also struggle with its weight. It often forces me to leave it at home and I hate myself for it, or I carry it and hate myself for it, but when everything comes together it is a great lens!

I have found I really like using a monopod with this lens (and the FE 70-200 GM) and have settled on the iFootage Cobra 3 Carbon Fiber Monopod with Mini Tripod Base. It needs to be paired with a head and ball-heads don't work as well as I would like, so I usually use my Benro GH2F Folding Gimbal Head with Arca-Type Quick Release Plate, because I can remove the L-bracket portion of the gimbal and attach the lens foot to the side of the gimbal.